The history of mountaineering: from the beginnings to the present day

Mountaineering has a long and fascinating history, ranging from the first ascents to modern alpinism.

The origins of mountaineering

Mountaineering has its roots in early cultures that regarded mountains as sacred places or challenges. Even in ancient times, people attempted to climb the highest peaks to test their abilities or perform religious rituals. For example, the ascent of the volcano Etna (3,403 metres) by Emperor Hadrian in 125 AD is mentioned in ancient writings. The first well-documented ascents date back to the 18th century, when the high Alps became accessible primarily to the European upper classes. This period marked the beginning of a new era of mountaineering, in which climbing peaks was seen as a sporting activity and adventure.

Development of the techniques

Over the centuries, mountaineering techniques have evolved considerably. In the beginning, the equipment was rudimentary and often consisted of simple ropes and wooden sticks. Over time, specialised climbing equipment was developed, making mountaineering safer and more efficient. The introduction of pitons, crampons and later modern climbing equipment revolutionised the sport. Climbing techniques were refined and knowledge of alpine safety and risk management increased.

Significant ascents

The history of mountaineering is rich in important ascents, which are often regarded as milestones in the history of the Alps. The first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786 is considered the beginning of modern mountaineering. Other legendary peaks such as the Matterhorn and Mount Everest were climbed in the 19th and 20th centuries and attracted adventurers from all over the world. These ascents were not only technical challenges, but also an expression of the human endeavour for freedom and exploration.

Milestones of alpinism
 

• 1786: First ascent of Mont Blanc (4,805 m) by Jacques Balmat and Michel-Gabriel Paccard.

• 1800: First ascent of the Großglockner (3,798 m).

• 1865: First ascent of the Matterhorn (4,478 m) by Edward Whymper and his rope team.

• 1889: First ascent of Kilimanjaro/Kibo (5,895 m) by a German-Austrian expedition.

• 1953: First ascent of Mount Everest (8,848 m) by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.

• 1978: Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler climb Mount Everest without oxygen equipment.

• 1986: Reinhold Messner is the first person to complete all 14 eight-thousanders without artificial oxygen.

• 2011: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner climbs K2 (8,611 m). She is the first woman to climb all eight-thousanders without additional oxygen.

• 2021: The Nepalese Nirmal Purja completes his ‘Project Possible’ and climbs all 14 eight-thousanders in just 6 months and 6 days.

The growing influence of technology

Technological developments have revolutionised mountaineering in recent decades. Modern climbing equipment, such as lightweight materials and innovative safety devices, enable mountaineers to climb more safely and efficiently. GPS technology and digital maps have made navigation in the mountains much easier. These advances have not only increased safety, but also opened up new possibilities for expeditions and adventures.

Cultural aspects and the perception of mountaineering

The perception of mountaineering has changed over time. While it used to be seen primarily as an elitist sport, mountaineering has developed into a widespread leisure activity. Today, mountaineers are not only adventurers, but also ambassadors for nature conservation and the preservation of Alpine landscapes. The culture of mountaineering has become firmly anchored in society and inspires people around the world to explore nature and test their limits.

Critical examination of modern alpinism

Nowadays, however, mountaineering is also increasingly characterised by commercialisation and technologisation. The ability to reach 8,000 metre peaks quickly with oxygen equipment and other aids raises questions about the authenticity of mountaineering. More and more people are attempting to climb the world's highest peaks, often without the necessary experience or preparation. This not only leads to an increase in accidents, but also to overcrowding on the routes, especially on Everest.

In addition, the use of Sherpas, who often work in extreme conditions, poses an ethical challenge. While they play an important role in mountaineering, it is crucial to respect their rights and safety. The increasing amount of rubbish left behind by expeditions is another serious problem that jeopardises the environment and the beauty of the mountains. The debate about the use of helium to aid climbers is another example of the ethical dilemmas that modern alpinism brings.

The future of mountaineering: inspiration and responsibility

The challenges and opportunities that mountaineering offers will continue to inspire and motivate future generations to climb the peaks. By focussing on the values of safety, respect and sustainability, we can ensure that mountaineering remains a source of inspiration and adventure in the future.